A chance encounter on the New York City subway in 2023 catapulted 25-year-old Bhavitha Mandava into the global fashion spotlight. The Indian-born model, who had moved to New York to study at NYU, was discovered by a talent scout from the team of Matthieu Blazy, the artistic director of Chanel. This serendipitous moment set her on a path that would make fashion history.
A Poetic Full Circle on the Runway
Just months after her subway discovery, Bhavitha Mandava achieved a landmark feat. She became the first Indian model to open the Chanel Métiers d'Art 2025–26 show. In a poetic twist, the show was staged at a New York City subway stop, mirroring the very location where her journey began. Prior to this career-defining moment, Mandava had already walked for prestigious fashion houses including Bottega Veneta, Dior, and Courrèges, signaling her rapid ascent in the industry.
Ujjwala Raut: Paving the Way for a New Generation
While Mandava's story is remarkable, Indian faces on international runways are not a new phenomenon. Veteran model Ujjwala Raut, who walked for Yves Saint Laurent in the late 1990s and early 2000s, was among the pioneers. She recalls a vastly different industry landscape. "Back in the day, we were just sent to the fashion houses," she shares, describing her first major show for Hermès in 1997 and her breakthrough with YSL in 2002.
Ujjwala's journey began after winning a modeling contest organized by BCCL in 1996 and representing India at the Elite Model Look contest at age 17. "The Times of India played a key role in helping realise my dreams," she acknowledges, crediting the publication for its support from flights to clothing.
Beyond Visibility: The Quest for Authentic Representation
Reflecting on the changes over two decades, Ujjwala Raut offers a measured perspective. She notes that while visibility has improved, the industry has not fully evolved. "It is getting better, but it hasn't reached where it should have," she states. For her, true representation means more than just a face on the runway. "I would also like to see the girls alone in the campaigns... I feel like we need more of that, not just an Indian representation."
She also recalls facing a unique, paradoxical barrier early in her career. "Honestly, most of the time, the issue was that designers felt I was too beautiful," she reveals, naming designers like Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto who held this view.
Ujjwala is candid about the current state of fashion weeks, questioning their commercial impact. "I don't know how many buyers you get from these fashion weeks now," she says, critiquing the growing overlap with celebrity culture where "the people meant to work behind the scenes want to be front and centre."
The stories of Bhavitha Mandava and Ujjwala Raut, separated by a generation, highlight both the progress and the ongoing journey for Indian models in global fashion. From being rare exceptions to opening major shows, their paths underscore a shifting narrative, yet one that veterans believe still requires deeper, more substantive change beyond mere visibility.
