Chef Sanjeev Kapoor's Guide to 7 Must-Try Kashmiri Breads at Kandur-waan
Chef Sanjeev Kapoor: 7 Must-Try Kashmiri Breads at Kandur-waan

Bread is a staple across India, but each region offers unique varieties that reflect local ingredients and traditions. From the soft phulkas of the north to the ragi rotis of the south, breads tell stories of culture and flavor. Among these, Kashmiri breads such as Kahwa roti, Tschur-ki-rot, and Kandur-ki-roti stand out for their aromatic appeal and distinctive preparation methods, often enriched with local spices, dry fruits, or clarified butter. Celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor, during his visit to Kashmir, was captivated by the irresistible aroma of freshly baked bread wafting from the wood-fired tandoors of Kandur-waan, the local bakery. He described the experience as a tough temptation to resist, especially on a cold, foggy morning while enjoying the scenic beauty of Dal Lake from a Shikara.

Chef Sanjeev Kapoor's Experience

Despite his busy schedule, the kandurs (bakers) warmly invited Kapoor to witness the making of Girda, a traditional Kashmiri morning bread. He learned the art of creating the bread's special dented patterns and baked it in a clay oven. Kapoor emphasized that the bread tastes extra special when made with love, as the Kashmiris do. Girda is made from wheat flour, water, and milk, but its uniqueness lies in the centuries-old technique honed by local bakers. He noted that the best way to understand a place's cultural depth is through its food, and the freshly baked breads of Kashmir offer a unique experience. Kapoor compared the flaky texture of Bakarkhani and Kulcha to Balushahi, explaining that Bakarkhani requires high heat while Kulcha needs low heat. He praised the kandurs' exceptional control over traditional tandoors, which contrasts with modern cooking's reliance on switches and buttons. He concluded, "We came here unannounced, but every bakery, every home opened their gates with love, heart, and food – that is the magic only food can offer."

7 Must-Try Kashmiri Breads

Czot

Czot is a medium-sized bread made from refined flour, featuring golden and white hues. It is prepared in a tandoor oven and marked with finger impressions.

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Ghyev Czot

Similar to Czot, Ghyev Czot includes ghee along with maida, water, and salt, making it extra soft. It is reserved for special occasions like Ramadan and pairs perfectly with noon chai (Kashmiri pink salt tea).

Lavasa

Lavasa is a thin, large, unleavened flatbread made from refined flour. This paper-thin, blistered naan is used to wrap meat and chickpeas, and is commonly served for breakfast with pink salt tea.

Chochwor

Also known as Czochworu, this is a small, soft donut topped with sesame seeds and poppy seeds. Made from refined flour or a mix with yeast, it is shaped into rings with a hole in the center and best enjoyed with butter or jam alongside salted tea.

Shirmal

Shirmal, or Krippe, is a slightly sweet, saffron-flavored bread that pairs well with kahwa. It is dry and crumbly, offering a longer shelf life.

Katlam

Katlam is a layered bread made from refined flour, salt, water, butter, poppy seeds, and milk. It is best served with noon chai.

Bakarkhani

Bakarkhani resembles puff pastry, made from refined wheat flour, ghee, and sugar. It is cooked in layers by stretching dough repeatedly and interleaving with ghee before baking in a tandoor. It is crisp on the outside and slightly chewy inside, best served with kahwa.

These breads, freshly baked every morning, offer a glimpse into Kashmir's rich culinary heritage. Chef Kapoor's recommendation to visit a Kandur-waan is a testament to the warmth and flavor that define this region's food culture.

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