Once a cherished weekly treat in many Indian households, the silver pomfret is now swimming into troubled waters. This culinary favourite, known for its delicate flavour and versatility, has transformed from a prized delicacy into a symbol of an escalating seafood crisis, marked by skyrocketing prices and alarming ecological vulnerability.
From Humble Plates to Premium Prices: The Pomfret's Journey
For generations, the pomfret has held a special place on Indian dining tables, particularly in coastal and Bengali cuisines. Its firm, white flesh that holds shape perfectly, a mild yet distinct flavour, and adaptability to everything from spicy curries to delicate grills made it a chef's dream. Recipes like the stuffed and fried pomfret with mint-coriander paste or the tangy pomfret tomato maachh are woven into family food memories.
While not unique to India—its habitat spans from the Persian Gulf to the Sea of Japan—the fish, whose name derives from the Portuguese 'pampo', is deeply embedded in the region's food culture. Its popularity is so profound in Maharashtra that the saranga or chanderi pomfret was declared the state fish in 2024. However, this love affair has come at a steep cost. The fish that was never the cheapest is now commanding prices once reserved for royalty, with a kilogram reaching Rs 1000, placing it in the same league as the celebrated hilsa.
The Bleak Reality: Overfishing, Pollution, and Shrinking Sizes
The story behind the price tag is one of ecological distress. The primary culprits are relentless overfishing and the capture of juvenile fish before they can mature and reproduce. Data from the ground paints a stark picture. The Satpati fishermen's cooperative in Maharashtra, one of the oldest and largest, reported a catastrophic decline in their annual pomfret catch. From 1200 tonnes per year in 1975, the haul plummeted to 800 tonnes by 1985. In a shocking revelation for 2024, the cooperative's 3,000 members managed to catch only 40 tonnes.
The high demand and lucrative prices have disrupted traditional fishing ethics. Fishing now continues even during the monsoon breeding season and festivals like Holi, a practice once considered taboo. This shortsighted greed, experts warn, is a direct threat to the species' survival. Compounding the problem is environmental degradation. Pomfrets feed on zooplankton and phytoplankton, but the creeks that were once rich with this food source are now polluted with industrial effluents and warmed by discharge from power projects.
The consequences are visible on the fish itself. It's now difficult to find pomfrets weighing over 300 grams. More alarmingly, juvenile-sized fish are being found carrying eggs, indicating that their overall size and growth patterns have been stunted due to these combined pressures of overharvesting and a degraded habitat.
A Call for Mindful Consumption: Can We Save the Pomfret?
The situation reads like a cautionary tale for a beloved ingredient. The solution, however, lies not in complete abstinence but in conscious, mindful consumption. The path to saving the pomfret involves two key consumer actions: avoiding pomfret entirely during the monsoon breeding season and strictly refusing to buy undersized, juvenile fish.
If demand during critical periods falls, it allows fish stocks to recover and replenish. The pomfret, often called the 'salmon of the East' for its premium status, must not follow the path of other overfished species. The choice for seafood lovers is clear: embrace sustainable practices today to ensure this delicate, silver delicacy does not vanish from our plates tomorrow. The future of the pomfret, much like its flavour, is now in our hands.
