As the Italian luxury menswear house Canali celebrates over two decades of a significant presence in India, its third-generation leader, Stefano Canali, reflects on a journey built on mutual respect for heritage, adaptive craftsmanship, and a forward-looking vision. In New Delhi to mark this milestone and launch the Fall-Winter collection, Canali embodies the brand's philosophy of effortless elegance, a principle that has guided its successful foray into the Indian market.
The Bandhgala Bridge: Crafting a Legacy in India
Canali's entry into India in the early 2000s was strategically anchored in a deep appreciation for local sartorial culture. The first store opened at the Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai, setting the stage for a long-term relationship. The key to unlocking the market, Stefano reveals, was the bandhgala. However, Canali didn't just import a style; it reinterpreted it.
"We created our own version with a distinct stand-up collar, a fitted silhouette, and a hip-length cut, similar to a tuxedo," Stefano explains. Crafted from fine mohair, wool, silk, and linen, and christened 'Nawab', this offering resonated deeply with a discerning Indian clientele. This success led to further innovations, including coats in silk-linen blends and sleeveless versions.
Stefano draws a parallel between Italy and India, highlighting a shared reverence for artisanal heritage. "Any kind of luxury craftsmanship saves artisans because it is bespoke. This is something that makes you stand out in a globalised world," he states. This respect for skilled workmanship, he believes, is a cornerstone of true luxury and a value deeply understood by Indian consumers.
The Rise of Smartorial Dressing and Casualisation
The global shift towards casualwear did not escape Canali's strategic vision. The brand pioneered the "smartorial" concept—a blend of formal sophistication with the comfort of leisurewear. Moving beyond traditional suits in the 1990s, the brand expanded into luxurious knitwear, denim, track pants, and even shorts and sneakers.
"As our lives got busier socially, we needed that one garment that can seamlessly transition between different occasions," Stefano notes. He emphasizes that casualisation for Canali is not about diluting elegance but about designing a structured, elegant lifestyle collection. This approach, intensified post-pandemic, has found strong favour in India, where consumers seek versatile wardrobes that offer both polish and ease throughout the week.
Interestingly, Stefano believes this smartorial style is age-agnostic. He recounts an instance in their New York store where the same piece was sold to a customer in their sixties one day and a twenty-something the next. "We keep on delivering the right and consistent message over time," he says, adding that younger generations value authenticity and credibility as much as price points.
Sustainability Through Durability and Future Frontiers
For Stefano Canali, the future of luxury is inextricably linked to responsible practices, with durability at its core. The brand conducted a life cycle assessment measuring its environmental footprint across 16 indicators. The findings reinforced a timeless principle: quality craftsmanship and superior fabrics ensure longevity.
"Durability means that your environmental footprint is divided by the number of years [a garment lasts]. So, if you buy less, you buy better because they are deemed to last longer," he reasons. This philosophy positions luxury not as excess, but as a conscious choice for enduring value.
Looking ahead, while the brand notes that many women executives opt for Canali's tailored men's jackets, a dedicated women's line is not an immediate leap. "Perfection takes time and Canali needs to perfect that art of clothing women before we commit to anything," Stefano asserts, highlighting the brand's commitment to mastery.
On technology, he views AI as a double-edged sword—a useful tool for efficiency but no substitute for human creativity and heritage. "Your heritage is a foundation upon which you’re supposed to keep on building the skyscraper. Technology cannot give you heritage or responsibility," he concludes, reaffirming the irreplaceable value of human touch in the world of high fashion.
With six stores giving it one of the largest retail footprints among foreign luxury brands in India, and the South and Southeast Asian markets contributing 20 per cent of global revenue, Canali's Indian chapter, sparked by the bandhgala, continues to evolve, blending Italian sartorial legacy with the dynamic spirit of modern India.
