As the first light of January 5, 2026, filtered through the Goan sky, Lake Karmali (Carambolim) lay wrapped in a serene blanket of smoky blue mist. For avid birdwatchers and nature lovers, this time just after 8 AM unveils a captivating wildlife spectacle, where the tranquil waters and surrounding woodlands come alive with avian activity and an ancient reptilian presence.
A Canvas of Feathers: The Avian Residents of Karmali
The morning chorus begins subtly. A white-throated kingfisher, perched on a stalk emerging from the water, fluffs its feathers, its sharp red bill poised like a dagger. Observers are treated to the sight of it diving, emerging with a silvery fish, and decisively bashing its catch against a branch before swallowing. Its chocolate-brown and white plumage gives it the distinguished look of a feathered dandy.
Soon, the lake's perimeter reveals more characters. Shiny green bee-eaters dart after insects, their vibrant color blending deceptively with the foliage when they perch. Overhead, sleek swallows patrol in blade-blue and white, while the water hyacinth beds become a stage for the purple swamphens. These large, cushion-bodied birds move with clumsy grace on enormous feet, their brilliant purple and blue plumage contrasted by vivid red bills.
The true showstopper is the sudden appearance of a bronze-winged jacana, spotlit by the sun. Its body shines with a metallic bronze-green sheen, its blue-black head adorned with a striking white eye-stripe, resembling a turbaned prince before it vanishes into aquatic vegetation.
Skyward Glances and Woodland Whispers
Birding at Karmali requires a multi-directional gaze. Looking up rewards watchers with fleeting glimpses of juvenile darters flying like sharp skewers, little cormorants in witch-black, and a marsh harrier scanning the water. A pied kingfisher whizzes overhead, its focus locked on the water below.
The silence is occasionally broken by sudden action. A flock of whistling teal passes by with squeaky calls, while a snow-white tern flutters away like a panicked butterfly. A Brahminy kite, carrying a twig during its breeding season, disappears into the canopy, later seen perched and observing the human visitors with keen interest.
In the woodlands fringing the lake, elusive species like the paradise flycatcher make brief appearances. A rufous-and-white individual, under four years old, was spotted this visit, a contrast to the snow-white one seen cavorting with a racket-tailed drongo the previous year.
The Sovereign of the Lake: Encountering the King Croc
While birds command the air and reeds, the water holds a different kind of majesty. A vigilant scan of the lake often reveals what looks like a floating log. It is, in fact, a crocodile. On this January morning, watchers saw three or four of these reptiles.
The most awe-inspiring was an absolute giant, christened 'King Kong of Karmali'. Initially lying still, revealing only its massive, carunculated head and back, it eventually moved with astonishing speed, carving a powerful wake through the water. This dominant presence is a constant, thrilling reminder of the lake's wild essence, prompting birders to pay their respects to the apex predator from a safe distance.
A Sanctuary in Need of Attention
The birdwatching experience is supported by a watchtower overlooking the water, currently claimed by a pair of magpie robins. However, as noted by visitor Ranjit Lal, the site shows signs of neglect. Informational signboards appear forgotten, and several posts that once served as perfect perches for kingfishers and bee-eaters are now reduced to just one.
Despite this, Karmali's allure remains potent. The lake, a man-made reservoir designed for irrigation, continues to be a fertile fishing ground, supporting its diverse ecosystem. On this day, fellow birders (mostly foreigners) reported sightings of an osprey, pied avocet, and bar-tailed godwit, highlighting the location's continued potential as a premier birding destination in Goa.
The magic of a morning at Karmali Lake lies in this duality: the delicate beauty of feathered jewels set against the raw, primal power of its ancient crocodilian residents. It is a misty spectacle where every glance, whether across the water or into the canopy, holds the promise of a wild encounter.
