The Grand Procession of Saints: Goa Velha's Unique Lenten Tradition
In the small village of Goa Velha, located approximately 12 kilometers from Panaji, a remarkable religious tradition unfolds every year on the fifth Monday of Lent. This event, known locally as 'Santachem Pursanv,' transforms the quiet village into a vibrant hub of devotion, attracting not only local residents but also numerous emigrants who specifically time their visits from Europe and West Asia to coincide with this unique procession.
A Historical Journey Spanning Four Centuries
The origins of this extraordinary procession trace back to between 1614 and 1617, when it began in Pilar under the guidance of the Franciscan Capuchins. This religious order was the first to arrive in Goa in 1517 following the Portuguese conquest. Interestingly, the initial procession did not feature any saints at all. "At first, the procession was only of the Veil of Veronica," explained Fr Antonio Albuquerque, parish priest of St Andrew's church. "It is believed that the Franciscan priests brought the veil from Rome along with them."
The Veil of Veronica holds significant religious importance as it is believed to bear the divine imprint of Jesus's face. According to tradition, a woman named Veronica used this veil to wipe Christ's face as he carried the cross toward his crucifixion.
By the end of the 17th century, the procession had evolved dramatically, incorporating 65 statues of saints. However, historical events led to a period of decline. In 1835, Queen Maria II of Portugal issued a decree ordering the expulsion of all religious orders, including the Franciscans, from Portugal and its colonies. This resulted in the abandonment of Pilar hill, the closure of the monastery, and the cessation of the procession.
During this turbulent period, many religious images and vestments were neglected, vandalized, and destroyed, as documented by researcher Rosario Rodrigues in her study on the procession.
Revival and Transformation in Goa Velha
The procession found new life in 1868 when it was revived at its current location, St Andrew's Church in Goa Velha. Under the guidance of Fr Cyrilo de Anunciacao, all belongings from the Pilar monastery were transferred to the new church. At this revival, the procession featured only 25 tableaux, a significant reduction from its peak of 65.
Since that revival, six additional life-size statues have been incorporated into the procession. Notable additions include St Andrew in 1981, who serves as the patron saint of the village; 'Goencho Saib' St Francis Xavier in 1984; St Peter, the first Pope, in 1985; and St Joseph Vaz, Goa's only saint, who was added most recently in 2009.
The Unique Character of the Procession
Fr Antonio Albuquerque emphasizes the penitential nature of this event, which often gets misunderstood as a feast. "I've been trying to tell the people that this is not a feast, so there cannot be a celebration," he stated. "I've asked people not to wish each other 'happy feast,' because it's not a feast. It's a misnomer. All these years, the penitential character of the procession seems to be lost somewhere."
Rodrigues describes the procession as an "exclusively unique event in the world" and an outstanding celebration specifically for the Lenten season. "The object of the procession is a penitential practice and presentation of the history and life of saints as models before people," she notes.
What makes this procession particularly remarkable is its scale and composition. Nowhere else in the world—with the possible exception of Rome, though on a smaller scale—do devotees walk alongside such a diverse array of religious figures, including saints, popes, martyrs, kings, queens, and cardinals.
The Saints and Their Significance
Contrary to popular assumption, not all saints featured in the nearly 2-kilometer-long procession are widely recognized figures. The collection includes lesser-known saints such as:
- Paschal Baylon, a Franciscan lay brother
- Philip of Jesus, the martyr of Nagasaki
- Agnes of Assisi
The procession begins with the Tau and the Crossed Arms, which represent the Franciscan symbol. St Francis of Assisi, the founder of the Franciscans, is the first saint to emerge, depicted receiving approval for his order from Pope Innocent III.
Each life-size statue, some weighing up to 200 kilograms, is carefully numbered and name-plated. Devotees shoulder these heavy statues through the streets, while others walk alongside or even beneath the tableaux, believing they will receive blessings through this act of devotion.
Contemporary Demands and Preservation Challenges
Today, there is growing demand to add more saints to the procession. "There is a huge demand to add more saints, but we cannot accommodate any more since the church gets filled up," explained Fr Albuquerque. "People want a statue of St. (Mother) Teresa to be installed. There's also a demand for St Carlo Acutis and St. Jude."
The procession culminates with the Veil of Veronica, which draws particularly fervent devotion. "It's an ancient artefact and people down the ages have realized that it's a sacred relic," said Fr Albuquerque regarding the veil. "But we cannot allow the veil to be damaged."
Despite efforts to discourage certain practices for preservation reasons, traditional devotion persists. "I've even tried to discourage people ducking under the statues, only to be told by old-timers that it's a tradition that cannot be disturbed," Fr Albuquerque acknowledged. "People have strong faith."
This 400-year-old tradition continues to evolve while maintaining its core spiritual purpose, serving as a living testament to Goa's rich religious heritage and the enduring devotion of its people.
