As Art Deco celebrates its centennial year globally, this iconic architectural style continues to influence design worldwide. However, when examining Indian fashion collections over recent decades, Deco-inspired creations remain surprisingly scarce despite the movement's strong presence in other aspects of Indian design culture.
The Art Deco Paradox in Indian Design
Art Deco first emerged at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris in 1925, quickly spreading across various design disciplines worldwide. In India, the style manifests prominently in architecture—from Mumbai's distinctive cemented railings to Jaipur's havelis—and in decorative arts like angular jewelry designs and furniture featuring geometric patterns.
Despite this widespread influence, fashion represents a notable exception. Tina Tahiliani of Ensemble, a prominent multi-designer retail chain, observes that while occasional Deco-inspired pieces appear, comprehensive collections dedicated to the style remain rare in the Indian fashion landscape.
Recent Examples Breaking the Pattern
The conversation around Art Deco in Indian fashion gained momentum recently when American stylist Law Roach commissioned Delhi designer Rahul Mishra to create a custom Art Deco-inspired gown for Ariana Grande. The singer wore this spectacular creation during promotions for Wicked: Part Two in November 2024.
Mishra's Emerald City-inspired dress, featuring metallic threads, sequins, and glass beads depicting a CGI-generated skyline, required over 25 artisans working for one month to complete. This masterpiece was part of Mishra's Pale Blue Dot collection, marking his first full embrace of Art Deco aesthetics after years of drawing inspiration primarily from nature.
Similarly, celebrated designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla presented their Art Deco interpretation during Art Mumbai two weeks ago. Actor Tabu closed their show wearing an architectural jacket-kurta-trousers ensemble featuring Purana Qila embroidered in silver—a monochromatic reinterpretation of their colorful 1991 archival piece.
Understanding the Limited Adoption
Several factors contribute to Art Deco's niche status in Indian fashion. David Abraham of Abraham & Thakore suggests that India's rich traditional design vocabulary might overshadow acquired tastes like Art Deco. The architectural style's severe geometry presents a stark contrast to the organic flows and intricate patterns that dominate Indian textile traditions.
Tina Tahiliani offers historical context, explaining that Art Deco emerged post-World War I as a symbol of freedom, characterized by bias-cut dresses and fringes in Western fashion. In India, the style manifested more subtly through motifs and weaves—such as sunburst and chevron patterns in Banarasi saris—rather than through dramatic silhouette changes.
Educational gaps also play a role. Smiti Kanodia, co-founder of Art Deco Alive, discovered significant public confusion about Art Deco fashion while organizing a 1920s-themed soiree in Mumbai. Her team created a style guide to help guests understand the aesthetic, highlighting its longstanding presence in Indian pop culture through Helen's shimmery golden outfits in 1970s and 1980s Bollywood songs.
The technical challenges of creating Art Deco fashion cannot be overlooked. The labor-intensive process demonstrated by Mishra's Ariana Grande dress illustrates why such pieces remain exceptional rather than commonplace in collections.
Despite these barriers, designers and curators express optimism about Art Deco's future in Indian fashion. As awareness grows and designers continue exploring global influences while honoring Indian craftsmanship, we may witness more geometric glamour gracing runways and red carpets in the coming years.
