In a unique celebration of Kolkata's rich culinary heritage, approximately 50 enthusiastic participants embarked on a flavorful journey through the historic neighborhoods of Kidderpore, Ekbalpore, and Mominpore on Saturday evening. The event, designed to explore the area's diverse food landscape, successfully promoted socio-cultural diversity and fostered greater harmony between communities.
A Culinary Expedition Through History
The walking tour, named 'Biryani and Beyond', was jointly organized by Know Your Neighbour (KYN), Jadavpur University (JU), and the Indian Council of Social Science Research (ICSSR). This innovative initiative explored traditional, lesser-known eateries across Kolkata-23, uncovering fascinating stories connected to migration, culture, and cuisine that demonstrate the daily food practices of the neighborhood.
Historically, Kidderpore holds significant importance as one of Eastern India's major dockyards and a settlement area for numerous migrants. While predominantly Muslim-populated, the locality also boasts the distinguished title of Kabitirtha or place of poets, having been home to celebrated Bengali literary figures including Michael Madhusudan Dutt, Hemchandra Bandyopadhyay, and Rangalal Bandyopadhyay, creating a perfect example of ethnic diversity.
The Flavors of Cultural Fusion
Sabir Ahamed from KYN, who led the walk, explained the culinary evolution: "The arrival of the last Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah, along with his entourage of bawarchis (cooks) and khan-i sama (chefs), added another dimension to Bengal's food culture by introducing the refined flavors of Awadhi cuisine. The distinctive Calcutta biryani with its signature 'aloo' represents a unique interpretation of Awadhi biryani."
However, Ahamed emphasized that the neighborhood offers much more than its famous biryani. The area serves as a true melting pot of cultures where multiple communities have coexisted for centuries, offering everything from bakarkhani, nankhatai, halwa puri, mawa laddu, dalpuri, German bread, puffed pastries, idli and dosas to traditional Bengali fare, winter specialties like nehari and paya, along with kebabs and the iconic Calcutta biryani.
Iconic Stops on the Food Trail
The culinary adventure began at Panchu Babu Shop, located opposite St Thomas Boys' School, renowned for its exceptional tea and fish fry. From this starting point, participants visited numerous iconic establishments including Choturbhuj sweet shop, Deepali cabin (famous for palmyra fritters or taler bora), the now permanently closed pice hotel Young Bengal Hotel, Sheesh Mahal (celebrated for its Kacchi biryani), Fancy Haleem stall (serving Haleem throughout the year), the iconic Haji Alauddin sweet shop, Zaiqa kebab, and the century-old K Ali bakery, known for its German bread, bakarkhani, and nankhatai.
KYN member Rubaid Naskar shared fascinating historical connections: "German bread directly links to World War II in 1942, during Japanese bombing raids and city-wide blackouts. Its hard crust and simple, rich ingredients provided longer shelf life, allowing people, particularly the local Anglo-Indian community, to stock up on 2 or 3 pounds at a time. Meanwhile, bakarkhani represents not just a Mughlai culinary staple but also embodies the tragic romance of 18th-century Bengal, named after military commander Aga Bakar Khan and beautiful dancer Khani Begum."
Challenging Stereotypes Through Food
Antara Mukherjee, associate professor at Taki Government College, highlighted the walk's social significance: "Certain stereotypical notions portray this neighborhood as a Muslim ghetto. This shared passion for food challenges the politics of misrepresenting the area's social, cultural, and linguistic lineage that has coexisted from the late 19th century until today. Food acts as a unifying thread that fosters harmony and creates a sense of belonging among local residents."
Another participant, Rohistashwa Guha, expressed his appreciation: "It was a unique experience discovering Kidderpore through its diverse food offerings." The event successfully demonstrated how culinary exploration can bridge community divides and celebrate cultural diversity through shared gastronomic experiences.
