A Taste for Club Cuisine: Nostalgia on a Plate in India's Colonial Clubs
Recent discussions have centered on Delhi Gymkhana Club, often seen as a relic of the British Raj. However, India still hosts 50 to 60 functioning British-era clubs. For members, the word 'club' evokes swimming, tennis, drinks, and satisfying meals in dining rooms distinct from restaurants. Senior journalist Vir Sanghvi recently criticized club cuisine, but many appreciate its wholesome, tasty, familiar, and affordable nature. While nostalgia plays a role, branding all club food as 'disgusting' overlooks its adaptation to Indian tastes.
Adaptation to Indian Palates
Colonial clubs modified dishes for Indian preferences. A 'baked dish' with mixed vegetables in white sauce is a menu staple. Originally, British members enjoyed roast lamb with mint sauce, but as they left, dishes evolved. Strong house mustard, butter, and green chillies replaced traditional accompaniments, creating favorites like the Roast Mutton Sandwich at Delhi Gymkhana. Retro sizzlers, popular at clubs like Ootacamund Club in Tamil Nadu, remain beloved.
Culinary Evolution
Club menus reflect changing tastes. Old classics like mutton cutlets and Chicken Kiev coexist with biryani and tandoori broccoli. Anglo-Indian dishes entered mainstream dining through clubs. The Madras Club claims inventing Mulligatawny Soup, while its Prawn Curry recipe is secret. Byculla Club in Mumbai introduced the Byculla Soufflé, a mousse with four liqueurs, later inspiring Caramel Custard, now a national favorite.
Kolkata's Club Heritage
Kolkata, India's club capital, has 8 to 10 colonial clubs, including The Bengal Club (1827) and Tollygunge Club, spread over 100 acres. The Bengal Club still offers silver service, while Tollygunge is known for Chicken Masala Toast. These clubs balance tradition with modern demands, outsourcing some catering but preserving beloved recipes.
Why Club Food Endures
Despite criticisms, club dishes remain popular, recreated in upscale restaurants. Clubs strive to keep old recipes alive, though some have become shabby. The charm lies in familiarity—where else can you share a table with a resident cat at Delhi Gymkhana? For those craving crème brûlée, clubs may not suffice, but Caramel Custard remains a comforting choice.
