Mumbai's Mohammed Ali Road Becomes Ramzan Food Mecca
As the holy month of Ramzan unfolds, Mumbai's iconic Mohammed Ali Road and Bhendi Bazaar area undergoes a remarkable transformation into a bustling culinary epicenter. While groups of devout worshippers offer special Tarawih prayers at the historic Minara Masjid and other neighborhood mosques, the streets come alive with hundreds of food enthusiasts crowding restaurants and roadside eateries.
A Feast for the Senses
The air fills with the irresistible aromas of smoky kebabs sizzling on open grills, piping hot payas simmering in large pots, and the rich fragrance of nalli nihari cooking slowly through the night. Spicy chicken changezi draws long queues, while those with sweet cravings indulge in sugary malpuas, crunchy jalebis, and creamy firni that melt in the mouth.
Chefs from Across India Converge on Mumbai
What makes this culinary celebration particularly unique is that many of these delightful delicacies aren't prepared by local Mumbai chefs alone. Restaurant owners and catering houses hire talented cooks from across India specifically for the Ramzan season. These culinary experts travel not just from major food cities like Hyderabad, Delhi, and Lucknow, but also from smaller towns and kasbas including Moradabad, Sambhal, Amroha, Indore, and Surat.
Mohammed Chand from Hyderabad represents this tradition perfectly. Famous for his mastery of haleem, pather gosht (baked on hot stone platforms), Hyderabadi biryani, and nihari, Chand has been making his annual Ramzan pilgrimage to Mumbai since 1991. As the son of Mohammed Ahmed, who once worked in the royal kitchen of the Nizams, Chand carries forward a rich culinary legacy.
"It was the late Jaffer Bhai Mansuri of Jafferbhai's Delhi Darbar who would invite my father annually during Ramzan," Chand explains. "I have offers from different places but prefer to work with Jafferbhai's son Hassan as we have developed a strong bond over the years."
Hassan Jaffer Mansuri of Jaffer Bhai's Delhi Darbar Catering Division confirms this special relationship: "Chand Bhai is like family to us. We hire him mandatorily during Ramzan, and he accepts whatever remuneration we offer him."
Lucknow's Culinary Masters in Mumbai
At a small Mughlai Paratha-Galouti Kebab joint near Minara Masjid, Saad Qureshi and Islam Qureshi from Lucknow work tirelessly, rolling and baking parathas while preparing melt-in-your-mouth galouti kebabs. Proprietors Parvez Koradia and Saad Pattanwala manage the bustling sales counter.
"These boys are incredibly efficient," says Koradia. "We pay them Rs 1,000 daily each, plus provide free lodging and food during their stay."
Saad Qureshi smiles contentedly: "Ek mahine mein 30,000 bahut hai (Rs 30,000 in one month is enough for us)."
Local resident Amin Parekh enthusiastically describes the experience: "Look at these hot parathas and the galouti kebabs. The parathas aren't oily at all, and the kebabs are so tender they literally melt in your mouth."
Moradabad's Biryani Legacy in Mumbai
A few shops away, Ali Hashmat's famous 'Ali's Biryani' and 'Barah Handi' joints attract constant crowds. Known affectionately as Ali Bhai, Hashmat established his business in 2001 and has become a local institution.
"We're originally from Moradabad but honed our skills at a family-owned restaurant in Kaliya Sharief near Roorkee," Ali Bhai explains. "I never attended formal cooking classes. We learned through hands-on work, constant experimentation, and innovation."
His younger brother Nazir Ali adds: "Our entire family is involved - three brothers and six nephews work together in cooking and selling our food."
The 'Barah Handi' restaurant represents a particularly significant achievement. This iconic establishment dating back to 1897 had remained closed for some time before Ali Bhai purchased and revived it a couple of years ago. While the restaurant serves various dishes including chicken changezi, seekh kebabs, malai tikka, and kaju keema, their Moradabadi biryani has earned legendary status for its exceptional taste and quality.
Political Recognition of Culinary Excellence
The reputation of these out-of-town chefs has reached Mumbai's political circles. Local MLA Amin Patel regularly hosts Ramzan dinners for close friends at a friend's office on Mohammed Ali Road. Among the dozen dishes served to batches of bureaucrats, journalists, and politicians, the Moradabadi biryani from Ali Bhai's kitchen consistently earns the highest praise.
"He uses authentic masala and maintains the perfect proportion of meat to rice in his biryani," Patel explains. "This has become a genuine Ramzan specialty that my friends eagerly anticipate each year."
This annual convergence of culinary talent transforms Mumbai's Mohammed Ali Road into more than just a food destination - it becomes a living testament to India's diverse food traditions coming together during the sacred month of Ramzan, creating unforgettable gastronomic experiences that blend devotion with culinary excellence.
