A team of mountaineers from Pune's Giripremi expedition group has successfully completed an alpine-style ascent of Friendship Peak in the Pir Panjal Range of the Western Himalaya. The team reached the summit on May 24, 2026, marking a significant achievement in Indian mountaineering.
Expedition Details
The expedition, which began in early May, involved a small team of climbers who adopted the lightweight, self-sufficient alpine style. This approach minimizes the use of fixed ropes and high-altitude porters, relying instead on the team's own skills and endurance. The climbers navigated challenging terrain, including steep ice slopes and crevasses, to reach the 5,289-meter peak.
Team Composition
The team comprised experienced climbers from the Giripremi group, known for their previous expeditions in the Himalayas. They were led by veteran mountaineer Umesh Zirpe, who has been instrumental in promoting alpine-style climbing in India.
Significance of the Ascent
Friendship Peak, located in the Pir Panjal range, is a popular destination for trekkers and climbers. However, an alpine-style ascent is relatively rare and requires exceptional skill and planning. This achievement highlights the growing proficiency of Indian mountaineers in advanced climbing techniques.
The team returned to base camp safely and expressed gratitude for the support from the mountaineering community. Their success is expected to inspire more climbers to attempt alpine-style ascents in the region.



