Kolkata's Sweet Shops Grapple with LPG Shortage, Forcing Fried Delicacies Off Menus
In a troubling development for sweet lovers in Kolkata, a severe shortage of commercial LPG cylinders has led to the sudden disappearance of numerous traditional fried sweets from local shops over the past few days. Iconic delicacies such as 'amriti', 'jilipi', 'kalojaam', 'lalmohan', 'pantua', 'bonde', 'darbesh', 'mihidana', 'sitabhog', and 'labanga lotika' have vanished from the racks, leaving customers disappointed and shop owners scrambling for solutions.
Shift to Steamed and Low-Heat Sweets Amid Energy Crisis
With the drying up of LPG stocks in their kitchens, sweet shops across the city have been compelled to pivot their production. They are now focusing on items that require less energy, churning out more steamed or low-heat sweets like 'rosogolla', 'rasomalai', 'sandesh', 'kheer-kadam', 'chamcham', 'rosomadhuri', and 'mishti doi'. Even high-heat specialties such as 'karapak sandesh' have taken a significant hit due to the crisis.
Dhiman Das, executive director of KC Das, explained the situation: "Shops are preparing traditional sweets of Bengal with 'chana' using equipment like steam boilers that need less energy. The heat requirement for making 'sandesh' ranges between 70°C and 75°C, whereas the charring of 'kalojaam' needs temperatures between 120°C and 140°C, which is currently unsustainable with the LPG shortage."
Industry Valued at Over Rs 6,500 Crore Faces Peril
The impact of this crisis extends far beyond mere menu changes. Dhiman Das has written to Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee, highlighting the dire situation faced by approximately 10 lakh people attached to the sweets sector. This industry is valued at more than Rs 6,500 crore, making it a significant part of Bengal's economy and cultural heritage.
Das warned: "The crisis could start affecting from Sunday in case of increased demand for fried sweets and snacks. Some arrangements are being made for using diesel 'bhattis' temporarily, but this is not a long-term solution." Many shop owners have already reduced staff numbers, with workers returning to their villages, and some outlets have been forced to close temporarily.
Customer Discontent and Innovative Adaptations
For residents like Sanjay Kundu, a self-described quintessential Bengali, the absence of favorite sweets has turned into a personal crisis. "I need to have at least one sweet after consuming lunch daily. This situation is disconcerting," he lamented, reflecting the sentiment of many in the city who cherish their daily sweet indulgence.
In response, some historic shops are innovating to stay afloat. At Nalin Chandra Das, a 210-year-old establishment in Natun Bazaar, proprietor Tapan Das has turned to diesel furnaces and induction cookers. "Most sweets used to be manufactured in coal and wood fire ovens about 50 years ago. We shifted to LPG but kept diesel furnaces. We later purchased induction cookers, which are now proving invaluable," he said.
Similarly, at Girish Ch Dey & Nakur Ch Nandy, a 182-year-old shop on Ramdulal Sarkar Street, production of 'karapak sandesh' and other 'malai'-based sweets has halted. Partha Nandy noted: "Once the gas supply returns to normal, these items will be available again."
Large-Scale Operations Struggle to Meet Demand
Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick, founded 141 years ago in Jadubabur Bazaar, faces a huge challenge in meeting varied demand across its 18 stores. Fourth-generation entrepreneur Sudip Mullick shared: "Our manufacturing was based on LPG, with diesel and electricity for some sweets. We still depend substantially on LPG. Given the crisis, we have reduced milk procurement by 20 per cent."
He added a grim outlook: "We have not yet halted production of any sweets, but once the LPG stock finishes, we will be compelled to stop making items that require more energy." This highlights the precarious position of even well-established businesses in the face of ongoing supply issues.
The situation underscores a broader energy crisis affecting Kolkata's culinary landscape, with the sweets industry at a crossroads as it balances tradition with modern constraints.
